The call of the wild lures travelers to the Gaspé Peninsula. Starting northeast of Montreal, Quebec, the land mass stretches into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Villages hug its extensive shoreline, leaving most of the forests and mountains as protected wilderness.

With environs ranging from islands and marshes to cliffs and rugged ranges, the Gaspé Peninsula presents an array of fascinating discoveries. Here are three sites that represent its diverse adventures.

Bonaventure Island's Feathered Treasure
Down feathers dance on the cliff-top breeze as if a pillow had split open. Deafening squawks and the raucous clatter of beaks pierce the air. Across the top of the cliff, pairs of gold-crowned, white Northern gannets tend to their nests.

Some 70,000 birds - parents and their chicks in stages of development from egg to near-fledgling - fill my view. Every year, Northern gannets nest on Bonaventure Island, a scenic boat ride from Percé at the easternmost point of the peninsula.

The trip to the island is a delightful half-hour outing in itself. En route, the boat circles Percé Rock, a rookery for black-legged kittiwakes, double-crested cormorants and several other species of birds. Harbor seals, gray seals and minke whales often frolic in the waters.

Exuding the bucolic tranquility of an island once inhabited by farmers and fishermen, Bonaventure Island became a national park in the 1970s. Paths lead to beaches, fields of wildflowers and cool forests.

On the far side of the island, the path exits serene woodlands into the cacophonous clatter of what sounds like drum sticks being run across ridged wooden tubes. Thousands of Northern gannet couples are affectionately tapping each other's beaks.

Only a three-foot high fence separates us from a cliff top packed with nests spaced exactly 32 inches apart from center to center. Regardless of the size of the rookery, the density stays the same. "This stimulates gonad development and incubation," the park warden explains.

Standing within a foot of the closest nests, we see chicks at various stages of growth - from an egg, to a two-week old bald chick just getting its white down, to some with tail feathers growing, and to others already bigger than their parents.

A feathery fluff-puff sprawls on its back. "It's just sleeping," park warden Jacques Langevin assures a concerned visitor.

The chicks mature in 90 to 100 days. And then they literally jump off the cliff, hoping to catch the air under their wings. Within two weeks, they start migrating to the Gulf of Mexico. Only 60 percent or so will survive their first year. Four years later the juveniles return to this colony to learn the art of courtship and later to nest. For the next 20 years or more, they'll return to the same nest with the same partner.

As the couples share nesting responsibilities, they tap each other's long, sleek beaks with a clack, clack, clack. Mesmerized by the endearing scene, I watch until the park warden shoos us back onto the trail to catch the last boat.

A 370 Million-Year-Old Fish Tale
The discovery in 1892 of Prince Miguasha, an ancient fossil of the Devonian Era, stirred excitement in the scientific community. Could it be that they had discovered the missing link between fish and tetrapods, or the four-legged, land-based vertebrates? The Prince was a fish with lungs, a very thick backbone, and the same bones in its fins as humans have in their limbs - femur, tibia and fibula. Exhaustive studies followed.

Paleontologists began combing the cliff site at Miguasha on the southern coast of the Gaspé Peninsula 50 years before the Prince was unearthed. By happenstance, a geologist searching for coal deposits discovered fish-shaped fossils. Their density and exceptional preservation captured the attention of scientists from the United States, Sweden and Great Britain.

The cliff still holds a treasure trove of specimens of the Devonian Period, including five of its six groups of fish. The search for clues about the transition of creatures from sea to land continues, with two students working a nine-square-foot area every summer. To protect the deposit, the Quebec government acquired part of the cliff, built a museum and established Miguasha Park in 1985. In 1999, it was designated a World Heritage Site.

A visit to Miguasha Park includes a guided tour of both the fossil site and the outstanding museum. At the fossil bed, which runs 2.5 miles along the cliff and about two-third's of a mile inland, our park guide, Olivier Matton, demonstrates how they open fossils with a rock hammer. He splits open a piece of shale revealing a cemetery of little shrimp.

"You need good timing to become a fossil," Olivier comments as he points out the vestiges of this abundant food source for fish. "You need to fall into the water just before a big sedimentary deposit."

The museum leads visitors through the Age of the Fishes some 370 million years ago. Exquisite fossils show the distinctive features of the various fish groups, such as armor-plated, spiny and lobe-finned with bone.

The latter group includes the Prince, the best documented anatomy in the world. Swedish professor Erik Jarvik alone devoted 25 years to its study. Fossils show the sequence of its growth, from a fry measuring an inch to an adult more than a yard long. For decades, paleontologists speculated the Prince was the link between aquatic and terrestial life forms. Recently, a more developed fish usurped the Prince's throne, but the search for definitive proof continues.

Every summer, excavators find about 500 fossil specimens. Each new clue pulls museum visitors deeper into the mystery.

Climbing to the Tundra
The white tip of the caribou's nose twitches as he sniffs the air checking for predators. Nearby, an entourage of two cows and three calves awaits his signal before moving. Hushed and crouching, we hide ourselves from view.

In every direction, we see small groups of caribou reclaiming Mont Jacques-Cartier in Gaspé National Park, now that most of the hikers have headed down the trail. The statuesque animals sport dark brown summer coats with white bellies and manes. Antlers poke skyward on both the males and females. In winter, the color of their coats will lighten and the white mantle around their throats and shoulders will become more prominent. Seeing these wild animals of the far North makes the grueling two-hour climb worthwhile.

A century ago, thousands of caribou roamed the wilds of Quebec's Gaspé Peninsula, but hunting and human incursion decimated their numbers. Today about 150 live on the park's tundra. This rocky terrain is not their natural habitat, but it's one in which they can continue to survive.

The trail up Mont Jacques-Cartier starts in aspen groves, then enters boreal forest and taiga and finally reaches the tundra, where the caribou roam. The climb traverses four ecosystems, equivalent to traveling 1,000 miles north. Timberline is low here - a mere 3,900 feet above sea level.

The vertical trail's loose rock surface punishes the feet. When the path reaches the tundra's treeless terrain, rock cairns mark the way to its end at an observation tower. The lofty vantage point captures awesome vistas of Mont Albert, the Chic Chocs and Quebec's Appalachian Mountains. Resting on a rock, I bask in the raw beauty.

Park interpreters lead tours on the Caribou Loop Trail, sharing information about the herd and the tundra that sustains it. Throughout the day, some of the animals are visible in the distance. All too soon, it's time to head down the mountain.

When only a few stragglers remain, the caribou climb to the mountaintop, reclaiming the magical tundra.

IF YOU GO TO GASPÉ PENINSULA:
Edited by Jenny Lucas

Location: The Gaspé Peninsula is located northeast of Quebec City in the Canadian province of Quebec. The best way to explore it is by car, starting in Quebec City or Montreal. The distance from Quebec City to the beginning of the peninsula is about 200 miles and to Percé: at its end is 500 miles. Major carriers serve the airports of Montreal and Quebec City, including Air Canada, American, Continental Express, Delta and Northwest Airlines.

Accommodations: Most lodging is in independent motels, inns and B&Bs, with breakfast provided and restaurants on-site that serve dinner. There are many options in Percé:, including the Auberge Les Trois Soeurs (1-800-463-9700). For a lovely location on the edge of Gaspé: National Park, stay at the lodge Le Gite du Mont-Albert (1-866-727-2427). Cabins and campgrounds are available in the park. Other lodging is available in the nearest town, Sainte-Anne-du-Mont. For Miguasha Park, the nearest lodging is in Carleton where choices include Hostellerie Baie Bleue (1-800-463-9099). For more information and to view the above locations, visit Info Gaspésie.

Attractions:

Gaspé: National Park (1-866-727-2427 or 1-800-665-6527): The park is located in the middle of the peninsula and charges a nominal daily fee. Of the park's many trails, the climb up Mont Jacques-Cartier is favored for caribou viewing. A shuttle transports hikers from the visitor center and campground to the trailhead. (No private vehicle access.) Allow four to five hours for the 5-mile round-trip hike. Hiking is permitted from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. only, and no one can set out after 12 p.m.

Bonaventure Island, Percé: (1-418-782-2240 or 1-800-665-6527): To fully enjoy the island, plan on spending the day. The canteen serves light fare, including delicious seafood chowder. Boats (fee charged) depart regularly for the island from Percé:'s dock, circle Percé: Rock on the way, and give commentary in both French and English.

Miguasha Park (418-794-2475 or 1-800-665-6527): The nominal admission includes a guided tour (English available) of the cliff site and the museum. Allow a couple of hours to fully explore this World Heritage Site. Gift shop and snack bar are on site.

Language: French is the predominant language spoken on the peninsula, with English as a second language.

Currency: The Canadian dollar is the official currency. Most establishments accept U.S. dollars, but often at a premium exchange rate.

For more information: Visit Parks Quebec and Maritime Quebec for information about the parks, other sights and area lodging facilities.