In an alpine meadow carpeted with lush grasses, newborn white–spotted elk frolic under the watchful eyes of their mothers. Travelers edge their cars onto the shoulder of Trail Ridge Road, opening their windows to gaze at the endearing wildlife "nursery." Around another bend, snow–mantled Never Summer Range scrapes the sky.

Those who travel this byway can stop to peer into deep valleys, view diverse wildlife, study the park's features at visitor centers, and hike in forests and tundra. At the end of the road, they will find themselves alongside Grand Lake's shimmering waters.

From its east end at Estes Park, Trail Ridge Road begins its ascent through glades and grasslands into Horseshoe Park. During June and July, those who drive through here in early morning or evening are often rewarded with sighting Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep when they flock to Sheep Lakes, a natural mineral lick rich with nutrients. By mid–summer, Indian paintbrush, golden aster and silvery lupine dapple the meadows.

At the bend in Horseshoe Park, Old Fall River Road — the route that in 1920 opened the park to automotive traffic — splits off the byway. Convicts labored seven years building it. For the adventurous, the nine–mile, one–way dirt road offers a gripping alternative route to the Alpine Visitor Center.

Travelers also have the option of detouring southeast on US Hwy. 36 to explore Moraine Park and the Bear Lake area. In the Moraine Park Museum, exhibits describe the area's geology. Hiking trails lead through ponderosa pine forests laced with aspen.

Trail Ridge Road continues westward on US Hwy. 34. Switchbacking upward, the byway reaches a subalpine ecosystem populated with Englemann spruce and subalpine fir. The first scenic overlook, Many Parks Curve, captures a vista of glacier–carved valleys studded with lakes. Radiant as a diamond, Longs Peak soars 14,255 feet high.

As the road climbs, trees begin to show the effects of the harsh environment. Fierce winds have sculpted firs into flag trees, whose branches grow only on the leeward side. Near 11,000 feet, trees stand only as high as the surrounding protective rocks, creating dense, low growth called krummholz. Then, as if halting at a battle line etched in the granite, tree growth stops. Here, the byway reaches timberline and the alpine tundra.

Tundra Trail showcases this fragile world. At Rock Cut, travelers can park their vehicles for a walk through a rock garden of delicate, miniature flowers. Contending with scant soil, limited water, strong winds and extreme temperatures, the plants have developed resourceful ways to survive. Waxy or hairy leaves store water. Red pigments act as sunscreen. Extensive root systems anchor them against the elements. A five–year–old plant may be no larger than a fingertip. Close inspection reveals the pink petals of moss campion, the deep–blue blossoms of forget–me–nots and the brilliant yellow disks of alpine sunflowers.

Just before reaching the Alpine Visitor Center, Trail Ridge Road reaches its highest point, 12,183 feet. With park exhibits, snack bar and gift shop, the center is a favorite rest stop. Nearby, Alpine Ridge Trail leads to vast, lofty views. Yellow–bellied marmots bask in the sun while squeaking pikas scurry among the rocks.

Always unpredictable, the weather can change at any moment. Temperatures may drop suddenly. Thunderstorms may roll in. Snow may fall, even in July.

As the byway begins its descent, the panorama sweeps north to Wyoming and west to the Gore Range. Herds of elk graze on steep, grassy slopes stitched with pockets of snow. At Milner Pass, travelers cross North America's watershed, the Continental Divide.

Curves corkscrew down through alpine, subalpine and montane life zones, unveiling broad vistas of the Kawuneechee Valley. From picnic areas, hiking trails lead into open meadows and cool forests. Gray jays flit among the trees. Mule deer may prong across the path. The sweet scent of vanilla welcomes those who sniff the sun–warmed bark of ponderosa pines.

At the site of Never Summer Ranch, guides relate stories as visitors tour the buildings of this early 1900s horse ranch. To the south, beaver dams obstruct gurgling streams. Camouflaged by wetland willows, moose graze in the marshes. Sighting one of these huge creatures is a rare delight.

Elk often graze on the vast valley floor. Massive racks crown bull elks. During the autumn mating season, their eerie bugling pierces the air.

Trail Ridge Road ends its 48–mile course at the west entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park, but the exhilarating journey need not end. The dramatic grandeur of the byway's scenery changes with each and every visit, encouraging visitors to come again.

TRIP PLANNER

Route: Follows US 34 between Rocky Mountain National Park's east entrance at Estes Park and its west entrance at Grand Lake.

Total length: 48 miles.

Driving time: Two hours one way, excluding stops.

Outstanding features: Exhilarating scenery, tundra and other high–altitude ecosystems, wildlife viewing, hiking.

Vehicle restrictions: None.

Accessibility: Open from about Memorial Day through mid–October, weather permitting. During other months, a few miles of road near each entrance can be driven.

Special considerations: No gas stations between park entrances. Weather can suddenly change. Elevation ranges form 8,000 feet to more than 12,000 feet.

Key events: Scottish–Irish Highland Festival, Estes Park, weekend after Labor Day. High Altitude Sled Dog Championship, Grand Lake, last weekend of February.

Fee: National Park Service entrance fee.

Contacts: Rocky Mountain National Park, 970-586-1206. Chambers of Commerce: Estes Park, 800-443-7837, 970-586-4431, and Grand Lake, 970-627-3402.