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In Thessaloniki's Modiano market, gypsies playing accordions, clarinets, tambourines and drums stroll into a small tavern. When a gray-haired businessman starts to dance, a ruddy-faced diner joins him. Together they urge a young woman with raven-black hair to lock arms with them. Drawn together by music, the three strangers enthusiastically dance around the crowded tables.
Strangers have been joyously intermingling in Greece's second-largest city for more than 2,300 years. Located on the main land route between Europe and Asia, Thessaloniki became a commercial and cultural crossroads where merchants, scholars and migrants gathered. What better way to connect with strangers young and old than through music, dance and good food — even during a 21st century weekday lunch hour?
Thessaloniki offers plenty for you and your family to enjoy, including beaches and horse-drawn carriage rides. But to experience its essence, you must explore its rich history.
Rich Cultural Heritage
Around the time Thessaloniki was founded, Philip II of Macedon unified the Hellenic world. Later, his son, Alexander the Great, conquered the Persian Empire. The city's location made it a strategic prize to be conquered by the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. In 1912, Thessaloniki returned to Greek dominion. Remnants of each of the ruling cultures stud the city and surrounding region. As a result, history is tightly woven into the everyday activities of city life, which adds fun and relevance to learning, especially for kids.
For example, ruins of a Turkish bath form the backdrop of a sidewalk cafe. The walkway to the Church of St. Demetrius skirts the remains of a Roman marketplace and forum. While touring this ancient church, you may happen upon a baptism, festival or other colorful slice of present-day life. The prominent waterfront landmark, White Tower, once formed part of the city walls and contained a notorious prison. Today, the tower is an appealing attraction. Climbing to the top is a challenge children enjoy. Everyone who does is rewarded with a sweeping panorama of the gulf, waterfront promenade and cityscape.
A more recent structure is the Modiano Market, built in 1922. Inside the bustling, glass-roofed marketplace, butchers sell beef, lamb and rabbits on one aisle while fishmongers display mullet, octopus and shellfish on another. Vendors dispense ouzo, the famed anise-flavored liqueur of Greece, from casks into shoppers' jugs. Women scoop grains and spices from deep wooden barrels. Large vats teem with olives. The market is a great setting to play "I Spy" with your kids and to learn about Greece's exotic foods by chatting with vendors.
To fully experience this ancient city, savor typical cuisine in a lively neighborhood tavern or ouzeri. At lunch or dinner, share a selection of tasty appetizers or mezes. Among the many dishes available are grilled olives, stuffed grape leaves, boiled wild greens, roast lamb, meatballs, mussels pilaf and squid stuffed with feta cheese. Let everyone at the table sample whatever they please.
Pella, Birthplace of Alexander the Great
Alexander the Great and his father Philip II of Macedon left such a mark on Greece's ancient history that you'll want to drive into the countryside to explore the sites associated with their legendary lives — Pella, Dion and Vergina. Not only are they superb places to learn about Greek gods, Roman customs and ancient life, you might well encounter an archaeological dig during your visit — always a fascinating experience.
Pella, birthplace of Alexander the Great, lies 24 miles northwest of Thessaloniki. When King Philip II unified Greece, Pella flourished as the capital of Macedonia. Solitary columns now border the former agora, or marketplace, which once bustled with traders from distant lands. Here, Aristotle tutored young Alexander.
At the House of Helen and other ruins of luxury villas, exquisite mosaic floors made of smooth river pebbles depict stories about ancient gods and glorious hunts. Remnants of similar floors grace the walls of the Archaeological Museum at Pella (tel 30 238 231 160, www.macedonian-heritage.gr/Museums/). In one mosaic, hunters pursue a lion crowned with a flaming red mane. In another, a panther lopes with the god Dionysus astride its back.
Ancient Sites of Dion
Southwest of Thessaloniki, roads cross the Macedonia Plain past rice, wheat and cotton fields to the ancient sites of Dion and Vergina. The Macedonian sacred city of Dion rests among stately poplars at the foothills of Mount Olympus. Before their expeditions, both Philip II and Alexander the Great came here to offer sacrifices to Zeus.
Among Dion's Hellenic sites is the Sanctuary of Isis, a temple where women prayed for fertility. Elevated walkways stretch over excavations to a statue of the benevolent goddess. Later, the Romans built a city here. Archaeological digs unearthed vast public baths with mosaic floors and a sub-floor heating system. Kids are especially drawn to the benches with holes hip-width apart — the public toilet where men gathered to swap the latest news. The Archaeological Museum at Dion (tel 23510 53206; www.macedonian-heritage.gr/Museums/Archaeological_and_Byzantine/Arx_Diou.html) exhibits numerous antiquities excavated at the site.
Royal Tomb of Philip II of Macedon
In 1977, a tomb with intriguing contents was discovered near Vergina. The items included a skull with a damaged eye socket, a pair of shin guards of unequal height and an 8-kilogram, solid gold casket bearing the royal, 16-point Macedonia star. From this evidence, archaeologists concluded that this was the tomb of Philip II of Macedon. A reconstructed earthen mound protects The Royal Tombs of Vergina (tel 23310 92347; www.macedonian-heritage.gr/Museums/Archaeological_and_Byzantine/Arx_Bas_Tafoi_Berginas.html). Inside, a dimly lit corridor leads to the underground exhibits. Floodlights pierce the unworldly darkness, lighting an intricate, painted frieze and other precious items.
To view more collections of priceless antiquities, visit some of Thessaloniki's museums, including the outstanding Museum of Byzantine Culture (2 Stratou Avenue, tel 2310 868 570, www.mbp.gr/html/en/info.htm and the Archaeology Museum (6, M. Andronikou street, tel 2310 830538, http://www.amth.gr/en/indexen.html).
LODGING
MAKEDONIA PALACE
Located on the waterfront, the Makedonia Palace is walking distance from the International Exhibition Center and the city's business and shopping district. Every guestroom has a balcony, with seaside rooms capturing views of the White Tower and the Thermaic Gulf. The five-star luxury resort hotel offers a choice of trendy restaurants and bars. Children take delight in the two outdoor swimming pools. Other amenities include a fully equipped fitness area and access to nearby tennis courts. Babysitting service is available.
2 Megalou Alexandrou Boulevard, Thessaloniki, tel 2310 897197, www.summithotels.com/hotel.asp?id=54075, $$$$
ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL
This five-star property overlooks Aristotle Square in the heart of Thessaloniki's commercial and cultural activities. Prime attractions, such as the Museum of Byzantine Culture, are a short walk away. The hotel was fully renovated and refurbished in 2002. All suites, as well as superior and executive guestrooms, have views of the square and sea. One floor is non-smoking. Amenities include a rooftop swimming pool, heated indoor pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam bath and fitness center. Spa treatments, massage and babysitting services are available. The hotel's roof-top restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Aristotelous Square, Thessaloniki, tel 2310 294000, www.electrahotels.gr/electra-thessaloniki/index.html, $$$$
CAPSIS BRISTOL HOTEL
This boutique hotel occupies two floors of an elegant building dating from the Ottoman Empire, in the lively historic neighborhood of Ladadika. The 16 rooms and four suites feature parquet floors, marble bathroom, antiques and handmade furniture. Amenities include an atrium breakfast lounge, bistro and gourmet restaurant. Babysitting is available. Ladadika's array of entertainment and dining options is just outside its door.
2 Oplopiou & Katouni Street, Thessaloniki, tel 2310 506500, www.luxurioushotels.net/capsis-brist/index.php, $$$$
DINING
MYPOBOLOS SMYRNH (THANASIS)
Located just inside the Modiano Market, this tavern's home cooking is popular with everyone from produce vendors to office workers, laborers and students. Along with the other ouzeries in and around the market, this is a great place for you and your children to immerse in the local culture. The delicious traditional foods include yogurt with chopped cucumber and garlic, eggplant puree and cheese-stuffed squid. Gypsy musicians often perform live music. You may even get caught up in impromptu singing and dancing. Modiano Market occupies an entire city block and is bordered by Aristotelous, Ermou, Vasileos Irakleiou, and Komninon Streets.
Komnenou 32, tel 2310 274170, $$
TA NISIA
This upscale restaurant features a variety of fish, meat and shellfish entrees and a comprehensive wine list. Among its distinctive selections are rabbit with onions, stewed octopus and quince and walnut pie. Housed in a blue and white building, Ta Nisia sits one street back from the gulf. After dining, enjoy a stroll along the waterfront.
Proxenou Koromilan 13, tel 2310 285991, $$$ - $$$$
KRIKELAS
Considered a Thessaloniki institution, this family-run tavern has been in business since 1939. Sun streams through tall windows onto tables decked with white tablecloths. Old photographs hang on the stone walls. The specialty is seasonal game, such as pheasant, rabbit and boar. The restaurant also offers an array of selections from traditional bean soup to Russian caviar and a variety of wines from small Greek vineyards.
Salaminos 6, Harbour, tel 2310 501600, www.krikelas.gr, $$$
INFO TO GO
Thessaloniki International Airport-Makedonia (SKG) is Greece's third busiest airport and serves 3.5 million passengers annually. It is is only a 55-minute flight from Athens International Airport (ATH). Olympic Airlines (www.olympicairlines.com/) offers several flights between the cities daily.
Thessaloniki International Airport is located about 9 miles southeast of downtown. Taxi fares to the city center run $15 to $22 and are subject to luggage and late night surcharges. The regional transit authority, OASTH, provides bus service (No. 28, fee less than a dollar) to the city center. Car rental service is available at the airport and at some locations in the city.
Published in Global Traveler, March 2008
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