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Smoke billows above the steam locomotive as it chugs up the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad toward Cumbres Pass. During the 19th-century silver mining era, the rail cars hauled silver ore and supplies. Today, vacationers board the narrow gauge railroad's vintage coaches and open gondola cars to admire the mountain vistas between Antonito, Colorado and Chama, New Mexico. The Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad offers several itineraries originating from either the Antonito or Chama depots about 250 miles 250 miles south of Denver.
Whichever ride they choose, passengers enjoy a feast of exhilarating views as the train switchbacks up mountain slopes, hugs sheer canyon walls, crosses trestles high above rushing rivers, and opens to alpine meadows dappled with wildflowers. The railroad crests at 10,015-foot Cumbres Pass. At the depots, visitors can explore the rail yard's collection of locomotives, cabooses and cars that once carried passengers, freight and stock.
Scenic rides run daily from either depot through October 19. Passengers can opt for the roundtrip ride to the old mining town of Osier or the 64-mile, depot-to-depot ride, which offers the option to return to the departure point by bus. The fares include a hot meal with salad bar and homemade desserts. Those who go the full length get to experience all of the route's stunning natural highlights, including lofty Cumbres Pass, cavernous Toltec Gorge and tight Tanglefoot Curve.
All of the railroad's theme trains originate in Chama and go to Cumbres Pass and back. Geared for children, the Cinder Bear Express operates on Thursdays (June 12 through August 14). This trip features storytelling, hiking and picnicking at the pass (lunch provided), and interacting with the railroad's mascot, Cinder Bear. The Sunday Express runs from July 6 to August 24. This year's themes include the Nature Train — which coincides with the Osprey Fest at Heron Lake State Park — Cowboy Days with a staged train robbery and the Gospel Train with singers strolling through the cars. Fall foliage rides start in September.
Depending on the rail trip's departure point, travelers use Alamosa, 30 minutes from Antonito, or Pagosa Springs, one hour from Chama, as their base for continuing to explore the area. An array of recreational and leisure activities here are perfect for an extended family getaway.
ANIMALS AND ARCHEOLOGY
Northeast of Alamosa, visitors discover North America's largest sand dunes, The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. These gigantic dunes, with Medano Creek running through them, create a fun beach in the heart of the Rocky Mountains.
Another favorite activity is the Sand Dunes Swimming Pool and RV Park. With the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Range as a backdrop, visitors swim in the large pool's warm waters (98 to 102 degrees), soak in the therapy pool (108 degrees), and play in the toddlers' pool.
While in Alamosa, visitors can stop by the state's newest Colorado Welcome Center. With almost 1,000 brochures displayed about the entire state and trained travel counselors, this is the area's best resource for recreation information.
Likewise, Pagosa Springs offers both active and leisure activities. The San Juan River and neighboring forests create a playground for kayaking, whitewater rafting, hiking and fly fishing. Right in the heart of town, the Springs Resort features 18 hot springs pools.
Just outside of Pagosa Springs, Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park houses animals of the area in large, natural landscape enclosures. Walking along a short trail, visitors see bears, elk, mountain lions, bobcats, coyotes and wolves. The best time to visit in summer months is during the animals' dinner time at 4 p.m.
In contrast, visitors can explore the ancient home of ancestors of modern Pueblo Indians at Chimney Rock Archaeological Area. Walking paths lead to remains of homes and ceremonial chambers called kivas.
Whether riding the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad as part of a weekend getaway or a weeklong vacation, families can create a regional itinerary filled with lots of novel activities.
HELPFUL FACTS
Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, 1-888-CUMBRES, www.cumbres-toltec.com
The railroad runs seven days a week through October 19. Reservations can be made online.
Alamosa Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1-800-BLU-SKYS, www.alamosa.org
Located at the juncture of US Hwy. 160 and CO 17, four hours from Denver, Alamosa has 10 economy and moderately-priced hotels and motels, including several popular franchises. Book online at alamosa.org.
Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, 719-378-6399, www.nps.gov/grsa
Sand Dunes Swimming Pool and RV Park, 719-378-2807, www.sanddunespool.com
Pagosa Springs Visitor Center, 1-800-252-2204, www.visitpagosasprings.com
Located at the juncture of US Hwys. 160 and 84, five hours from Denver and 90 miles west of Alamosa, Pagosa Springs offers a range of lodging, from B&Bs to resort lodges. Book online through www.visitpagosasprings.com.
Chimney Rock Archaeological Area, 970-883-5359, www.chimneyrockco.org
Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park, 970-264-5546, www.alldurango.com/wildlife
The Springs Resort, 800-225-0934, www.pagosahotsprings.com
Published in Buzz in the 'Burbs, July/August 2008.
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