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SEE THE MAGAZINE COLUMN WITH TRAVEL PHOTOS
Childhood memories of gargantuan trees, thundering waterfalls and wild bears on a family camping trip dictate our inland route north through California to Oregon: Sequoia and Yosemite National Parks are must-sees.
The sun shines brightly on departure day. To ease into the rhythm of the road, we go only 100 miles to an RV park north of San Diego. Surrounded by rolling hills and flower dappled meadows, we swim, soak in a hot tub and bask in the sun.
The relaxation serves us well on the next day's drive around Los Angeles as David maneuvers the rig with ease through congested areas. By day's end, we reach Sequoia National Park.
Giant Trees
Early morning we set out in our tow car. At Lodgepole Village, we ride a shuttle to 2,000-year-old General Sherman Tree, reportedly the largest living tree in the world. Deep snow still covers the forest floor, but a cleared, circular path lets us study the sequoia from all angles. Fibrous, cinnamon brown bark sheaths its trunk. Later, we marvel at the General Grant Tree, whose diameter is as wide as three car lanes. A ranger shows us the origin of these colossal trees-seeds as tiny as oat seeds.
At lower elevations, we hike through Sequoia's springtime landscape. Perky white flowers on Miner's lettuce adorn the steep trail to Marble Falls. Nude sycamore trees show off their peeling bark, while orange lichen and emerald green mosses beautify sheer rocks. At the falls, water tumbles over boulders of dazzling white marble.
Our next must-see attraction, Yosemite National Park, rewards us with more eye-popping sights. In Mariposa Grove we search for the famous car tunnel tree that my dad drove us through in the family car. A snow-packed trail leads us to a grove of giant sequoias. When I learn that the tunnel tree fell in 1969, I opt not to see it to preserve my memory of the mighty sequoia standing sky high above us.
Towering Waterfalls
When the park road crests at Tunnel View, it opens to a glorious view of Yosemite Valley. The panorama of El Capitan, Half Dome, Bridal Veil Fall and the valley so pristine that it looks like a painting. Only the cascading waters of Bridal Veil Fall confirm it's real.
We turn our time at Yosemite National Park into a getaway from RV living by staying at pet-friendly Yosemite View Lodge, just outside the west entrance. We find amenities we crave in the spacious room: a gas fireplace, spa tub and king bed. A high rod fence makes it possible for our dog to join us on the large patio overlooking the roaring Merced River. Ducks keep us entertained as they surf down the rapids and then fly upstream to do it again.
For several days, we explore sights around the valley. Sunbeams dance on majestic Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls. A dogwood blooms on the bank of Merced River. Ribbons of water stream down Half Dome as we walk in its shadow at Mirror Lake. A rainbow arcs in the mist on the hike to Vernal Fall. Even without seeing bears, the national parks are still as magical as my girlhood memories.
Adventures Above and Below Ground
Continuing our trip north, we drive through the bread basket of California. Fruit orchards and almond groves border the highway. Dust swirls above flat fields as farmers till the soil in sizzling 90-degree heat.
Some 350 miles later, we reach Redding. Iconic Sundial Bridge spans the Sacramento River in Turtle Bay Exploration Park. After viewing the museum aquarium of local fishes, we cross the footbridge's translucent glass deck to stroll in the botanic gardens.
The next day, we step into the depths of Lake Shasta Caverns. Calcite crystals embedded in stalactites and stalagmites sparkle like diamonds. Flowstone creates walls of cave bacon and draperies. Growing in circles and angles, helictites form fanciful shapes resembling coral and spaghetti.
Later, we kayak on the deep-green lake at Whiskeytown National Recreation Area. Ranger-guided tours, including use of kayaks, paddles and life jackets, are free through summer, compliments of Uncle Sam. As we paddle, Ranger Bobby Gutierrez relates the history of now-submerged Whiskeytown. Blue oaks and gray pines blanket the slopes. An osprey soars overhead while a great blue heron stands motionless on shore.
Resuming our travels, we climb up Siskiyou Pass and enter Oregon, a first for both of us. Soon our route dips back into California to cross the coastal range to the Pacific Coast. We wind past towering redwoods and rhododendrons bursting with enormous white, pink and fuchsia blossoms.
Shortly after we turn north, the view reveals a rugged coastline of cliffs, massive offshore rocks, ocean surf and sandy beaches. Ah, we've arrived at our new "home"-the Oregon Coast.
WHEN YOU GO
Lake Shasta Caverns
Redding, CA CVB
Sequoia National Park
Whiskeytown National Recreation Area
Yosemite National Park
Yosemite View Lodge
Rose and David Muenker, a travel writer-photographer team based in Denver, are traveling the roads of North America by motorhome. Read about their adventures in every issue of Out of Denver and on their blog davidandrose.com.
Published in Out of Denver, August 2011.
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