A scallop dragger blasts its horn, signaling townsfolk to come bid the crew farewell before they leave Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.
Since the late 1700s, fishing has sustained this harbor town on Canada's east coast. The former British colony sits on a neck of land that juts into the Atlantic Ocean. Blanketing a hillside, the rectangular grid pattern of its streets measures one mile wide and 10 blocks deep from harbor to hilltop.
The original settlers - farmers by trade - took to the sea out of necessity. Seeking religious freedom, German, Swiss and French Protestants established Lunenburg in 1753. The British Crown gave the colonists town lots, garden plots and substantial farm acreage, but the clay soil proved too poor for an economy based only on agriculture. Within two generations, the settlement boasted some of the world's best fishermen and ship builders. At the turn of the 20th century, 200 schooners worked out of the harbor, filling processing plants with cod and other catch.
Residents have maintained the city's original character by preserving its layout and architecture. As a result, Lunenburg is the best surviving example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America, a distinction which earned it designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The designation distinguishes Lunenburg as a place of outstanding universal value for the global community and places it under international protection.
The cherry-red buildings of a former fish processing plant brighten the historic waterfront. Tiers of centuries-old structures, now used as restaurants, residences and shops, hug the hillside. Wide enough for military parades, King Street bisects the town.
To hear yarns and facts about the community, I join a walking tour. Wearing a Scottish kilt, the guide, Eric Croft, meets our group at Lunenburg Academy. Its Second Empire architectural style features towers and tall windows through which swaths of sunshine pour. Little has changed since it opened in 1895.
As we stroll along residential streets, Croft points out distinctive architectural features. On each end of the Heckman-Morash House, a dormer with five walls projects from the roofline. The Winter House, one of the town's oldest structures, hunkers close to the ground. Its walls stand only six feet high, making it easier to heat the home's kitchen, living area and loft in bone-chilling winters.
We step inside Zion Lutheran Church, the town's tallest building. "Sea captains used its steeple to guide them into port," comments Croft. Pews now occupy the space in which early parishioners stood in sections according to status: single, married, married with children.
Construction whirs around St. John's Anglican Church, 50 percent of which was destroyed in 2001 by fire. Restoration will be completed by the end of 2005. Built shortly after Lunenburg was founded, the Gothic-style structure sits in the center of Town Commons. In its early years, services were conducted in English, French and German.
As we walk past St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church, Croft points out the life-size, 6-foot codfish sculpture on top of the steeple. One sizeable whisker hangs from its chin, a feature I suspect is more artistic license than fact. "They use it to stir up the ocean bottom for food," he explains to a skeptical audience.
On the next block, the guide stops at his car and pulls out a platter of foods typical of this fishing community. We sample smoked salmon and haddock, salt cod, dulse (dried seaweed), Lunenburg sausage and the fishermen's tasteless staple, hardtack. Oatmeal cookies sweetened our palates.
Heading down King Street, we enter the commercial district. Wolff House, built for the first mayor, sports a distinctive architectural feature called the "bump." With floor-to-roof windows on its three sides, the bump extends a couple of feet over the main entrance, adding space and light to the upper story. Perhaps more important, from its vantage point residents could discreetly watch what was happening up, down and across the street.
The Knaut-Rhuland House (1830) exemplifies residences built by sea captains. The color of each captain's house-in this case, charcoal gray-matched that of his ship. Features such as the porch, tower and gingerbread trim were added as the owners acquired wealth.
Croft tells us about life on the schooners that fished off the Grand Banks for 6 weeks at a time. Fishermen started their day before dawn chopping fish, baiting the hooks, loading the dory and setting the trawl line. They worked the lines until 6 p.m. and processed the catch in the ship's hull late into the night. Describing the dory fishermen's technique called underrunning, he says, "They pulled the boat along the line, with the first man jerking the fish off the hook and the second one bending the hook back into shape."
The tour wraps up at the Fishermen's Memorial. Pillars stand on a base shaped like a compass rose, the diagram used on maps to show north and other directions. The outside pillars list men while the inside ones list boats lost at sea. Treacherous gales downed six ships and 138 men in 1926 and 1927 alone. Pointing to the surnames, Croft remarks, "Your father, your brother, your uncle - whole families were wiped out." The memorial is also a tribute to those who still fish. Pointing to the one pillar that holds no names, he adds, "That's blank and we hope to keep it that way."
With an appreciation of the town's history, we continue exploring by visiting the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. The aquarium with North Atlantic species grabs my attention because it contains codfish -- I want to see that hook-shaped chin whisker up close. A panel states that it is called a barbel, which detects food, water temperature and changes in the current. Various rooms exhibit vessels, marine engines and fishing gear. Others describe whaling, inshore fishing methods and the 500-year history of Grand Banks fishery.
From the wharf outside, I board the Theresa E. Connor, the last schooner to fish out of Lunenburg. It has been part of the museum since 1963. As I slip through tight corridors into the depths of its wood hull, I imagine fishermen cleaning, salting and packing their catch, then retiring to their narrow bunks for four hours of sleep.
Back on deck, I admire the beautiful harbor setting: historic buildings, warehouses painted bright blues and reds, boats cutting through the water. As I riffle through a visitor's guide, I plan my afternoon wanderings. I can explore Huck Fisher Metalworkers, Quilts by the Sea and other galleries. Shops offer everything from handmade rope trivets at Nautical Nostalgia to coats at Double Whale Handwoven Designs.
Tantalizing aromas waft from the Old Fish Factory Restaurant tickle my nose. I know what's first on my agenda: a lunch that celebrates Lunenburg's historic livelihood. I'll order cod - without the whisker.
IF YOU GO TO OLD TOWN LUNENBURG:
Location: Lunenburg is located in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia, 57 miles southwest of the provincial capital, Halifax, and Halifax International Airport.
Maps:
Lodging and dining: The town offers a variety of accommodations, from quaint B&Bs in historic residences to country inns and full service motels. A bountiful array of selections awaits seafood lovers: delicate mussels, deep sea scallops, haddock, lobster, planked salmon. Traditional dishes include Lunenburg pudding and Lunenburg sausage and sauerkraut. Prices fit every budget.
Attractions: Be sure to explore the town's shops, galleries and museums, especially the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic located on the wharf. Eric Croft offers a variety of Lunenburg Town Walking Tours, including daytime, candlelight, cemetery and customized outings. He is the exclusive operator of St. John's restoration and Lunenburg Academy tours.
Currency: For US and many European travelers, the exchange rate is highly favorable. Calculate your current exchange rate. In addition, the Canadian government reimburses GST (good and services taxes) incurred by foreign travelers. Obtain a form from the Canadian departure airport.
For more information:For brochures, information about festivals and assistance with accommodations, contact the Town of Lunenburg, 119 Cumberland Street, PO Box 129, Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada B0J 2C0, (902) 634 4410 or visit its website.
For UNESCO World Heritage Site information: Visit the Old Town Lunenburg listing.
